![]() If you tear it or it's been torn already, don't worry. The ribbon cable for the top screen can sometimes be difficult to remove. Don't lose it! The DS Lite will not boot without it! However, the cable attached to it can be removed and left off. On the DS Lite, the WiFi board is plugged into a slot. On the original DS, the DS Phat, the WiFi board is soldered to the main board and cannot be removed. If you can't work it out, go ahead and clip it. The WiFi antenna cable is small and black, and runs under the DS slot. I ripped one apart on accident once, but it's not important since we won't need the touch screen for GBA games. The ribbon cable for the touch digitizer of the lower screen is tiny, and it's connector is very fragile. You'll also need to disconnect all the ribbon cables inside. There are a few screws on the inside that secure the main board, and you'll need to remove them. You remove the battery cover and battery, remove all the tri-wing screws, and open the case. I'm a fan of white with black accents, so I used a white primer topped with a few coats of a clear enamel, since that's what I had in my garage at the time.ĭisassembling the DS Lite is rather straight-forward. I'm sure you can find it at any auto part store.ġ0. I bought my can of bondo at WalMart, of all places. I bought a set of smaller files and larger rasps at my local hardware store some time ago for a different project.ĩ. I have a basic Dremel tool, available at hardware stores.Ĩ. If you want it to work and also want it to look good, Then you will need the following as well:ħ. The above covers everything that we need to make this mod work. We'll talk about these in their own step. Not required, but will help very much with the resistors.Ħ. I got a set from the 99 Cent Store, among other stores.Ĥ. You can get these from various on-line shops, I got mine from Amazon.ģ. This cannot be done with a DSi, as it has no GBA slot.Ģ. So when the owner of the local game shop offered me a stack of "broken" DS Lites for $15, I knew what I needed to do: I was finally going to build the Gameboy Macro I've been lusting over for some time.ġ. But I hate the fact that it's not back-lit and that it takes AA batteries. I love the form factor of the original model, with the controls on either side of the display. It's the only system I've ever preordered and stood in line for. The form factor and battery life are incredible.Įasily 10 hours on the brightest setting.I love the Gameboy Advance. Regardless, I still far prefer the Macro to an SP or any other iteration of the GBA. Unfortunately there is no way around this. It draws a black border to maintain the same aspect ratio/resolution of a Game Boy Advance. Why is there a black border on the screen? My warranty is essentially: “Email me if you have an issue and I’ll fix it.” As long as you didn’t crack open your Macro to fix it yourself I’ll take care of any repairs.įor press inquiries please email me at Technical Questions The majority of the work for a Macro is in the shell, so the pricing for a shell would be nearly the price of a complete unit. Standard Macro with a MicroUSB Port: $175.Please subscribe to the mailing list, keep an eye on this site, or follow me on facebook so you can stay up to date! I regularly send emails with notifications of when I will have units for sale, I unfortunately do not do pre-sales though. I make the Macros as I have the time, so it’s fairly sporadic. Paired with a nice looking body it becomes a pretty awesome Game Boy Advance! The Macro is simply a DS modded to run without a top screen.
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